But usually, people mean charge mass. A small cannon, such as a A medium cannon, such as the A large cannon, such as the A sniper cannon, such as the And of course, mass demo cannons, such as the A comparison of the shot distance of two different cannons, 1 shot with and 1 shot without a condenser charge each.
Because the force from an explosion is weaker the further away from its source, TNT placed more than 7 blocks from the projectile have little to no effect. To remedy this problem a condenser charge may be used. A condenser charge works by exploding slightly before the main charge, with the intention to push other primed TNTs towards the projectile. Since the main charge is closer to the projectile, it will be launched with more force. Using pistons to push the main charge closer to the shot also does the same thing as a condenser charge, more complicated to build but more controllable.
To work, the main charge must be primed, turning the solid TNT blocks into entities. Once they are entities, a series of pistons can push and concentrated all charges into a single block space behind the shot. In this system, you get far more efficient power from a given size of charge.
Care must be taken so that the pistons do not displace the water blocks protecting the cannon from TNT damage. To do this, one usually has to apply water a block above the area where the pistons would go into. It is also advised that the pistons should retract back into normal position before the main charge explodes, or your cannon might be destroyed.
When the pistons extend, they create air spaces in the water no matter what, hence compromising the water's protection. When a TNT charge is primed, it will usually shift slightly to one side, which can reduce the accuracy of otherwise well-designed cannons. A simple solution exists: add guide blocks so that there is a wall on either side of the TNT when it is primed.
This will prevent the TNT from shifting left or right, resulting in a straighter shot, with less diagonal variance. If your design does not allow for this, you could just make the guide blocks one block higher, instead of being on either side of the TNT. This works because TNT will jump up, then go sideways in midair. Note that in most basic cannons, guide blocks should be transparent if the TNT cannon automatically primes the shot-otherwise, the redstone that ignites the charge will power the block next to the shot, and igniting the shot as well.
If this explanation is unclear, look at this diagram:. In dry cannons, a guide block is almost a necessity because dry cannons tend to be inaccurate. However, dry cannon's guides are for directing the shot to be shot accurately, not to be primed accurately.
However, guides can also decrease range if they are too long. The shot mounting block for a cannon should be chosen according to how fast, far, and high you want the cannon to fire. Of course, these variables depend greatly on the position and amount of the charge and the timing of the shot, but the mounting block also can make a difference.
For example, with a cannon with a charge of 5 and a delay of R4. With small TNT charges, the range can be extremely limited. To increase the range, ever larger charges are needed or the cannon must be built higher above the ground. A larger charge means a higher velocity to the shot, pushing it farther away before it drops to the ground.
Players have been known to use up to 70 TNT charges and beyond. But economically, a cannon without a mounting block will take more TNT and longer to load for a certain range. However, part of the blast force is absorbed by a solid mounting block, so the cannon will suffer similar problems of needing large charge sizes.
Also, since some of the energy is expelled in the upwards direction, forward shot velocity is reduced greatly. A better alternative to the single mounting block is using a ladder instead. When the TNT shot is initially placed over a half block, it will hang over it as if it was a full size block. Once the TNT has been "primed", it will fall down and sit on the true height of the slab. The firing angle produced by a half block is good for extending the range of a cannon and hitting elevated targets, but its too low for effective lobbing over high walls and obstacles.
For straight direct firing, shots fired with a half block mounting generally land level on the ground within a certain range. However, due to the limited fuse time of TNT in the game, scaling up the TNT charges up to a point will result in the shot flying too high and exploding in the air before it lands or reach the cannon's maximum range.
This will be refer to as the "fuse range limit". All cannons are limited by the fuse range limit, but cannons firing at higher angles are especially prone to the fuse limit, as the shot velocity is lower and shots reach higher altitudes. Little forward velocity is lost when firing, and shot typically fly out at very high speeds.
This combine with the low firing angle means cannons firing larger loads can extend their range without encountering too much fuse range problems as with the half block or ladder mounting. A good portion of the blast energy is directed upwards on the block, so horizontal speeds are generally much slower than a no-mount or half block mount cannon.
In return, the cannon has no problem lobbing shots over terrain and walls. At larger charge loads, shots can reach very high altitudes.
However, this also means the fuse range limit is an inherent problem with this mounting. Within a block distance, well built cannons level with the ground can expect to land shots low enough to cause damage. But beyond this shots explode midair way beforehand, even with a shot primed at maximum fuse time with a delay circuit. Hence, one can't simply add more TNT to increase the range, as it will only make the shot fly higher. A basic solution is to put the cannon below ground, in a pit with a slanted slope to allow the shot to fly out.
Since the shot had a lower starting point, it will explode closer to the ground once its fuse time runs out. To reach ranges beyond blocks, this solution becomes impractical. Note: the example cannon needs modifications to work in Bedrock Edition because dispensers still make TNT hop ending up with the first TNT destroying the machine.
This can be fixed by putting that dispenser on a separate water flow that goes into the same block, also allowing for long range cannons. This feature can be used to make better automatic TNT cannons. The cannon to the right uses dispensers to release TNT into the water. When you press the button, first the long row of dispensers will fire. After a tick delay made the repeaters , leftmost dispenser will dispense the last moment before the TNT detonates, giving the shot a longer range.
Note that the leftmost dispenser is higher than the other dispensers, and that the water should be flowing towards the front of the cannon. You can easily modify it to have another dispenser under the water facing up, and you can use a fence post with a pressure plate on top instead of a slab.
Pros: The time taken to reload TNT is at its absolute minimum. All a player has to do is to make sure the next shot is placed after the first shot is fired to make sure you don't destroy your cannon. Such precision makes this cannon good for castle defense. Furthermore, through use of comparators, it is possible to make an easily aim-able dispenser-based cannon, and dispenser-based cannons do not blow themselves up if hit with another TNT cannon.
Cons: Dispensers and TNT are expensive. This type of cannon can never be quite as hardy as manual cannons, since dispensers can be blown up with TNT. Furthermore, if the cannon is left loaded and unattended, it is trivial to steal the TNT from its magazine. This is also true of conventional auto-cannons.
Dispenser-based cannons with a one-block-wide water pool have also been known to blow themselves up, particularly if left firing automatically and unattended.
An automatic cannon can easily be made with this design. Substitute the button for redstone and hook the redstone up to a clock. Be careful not to set the clock under 4 seconds, the same time as it would take the TNT to explode. If the TNT is reloaded too quickly, the timing can cause the shot to detonate before the propellant does, destroying the entire cannon. Reloading cannons are one of the most complex designs for beginners. However, as long as close attention is paid, for a first time build, it can be created in about 15—20 minutes depending on the size.
Reloading cannons became obsolete when dispensers were added except in the console editions. The Good: Reloading TNT cannons can be customized just as easily as any other cannon using fences, iron bars, glass panes, etc. They can be shot several times with only a few seconds' interval in opposition to having to reload it several times like you'd have to do with a standard TNT cannon.
Using the simple design, this TNT cannon can have up to 12 rounds in the magazine. If playing a fortress war server, this cannon can fire repeated shots which will demolish the enemies' buildings before they have time to stuff their ammunition into their puny and inferior weapons. The Bad: Unfortunately, cannons of this variety are bulky and often unattractive.
They require sand or gravel which are nonrenewable resources in survival mode. Added to that, it is tedious to reload the cannons whenever the magazines run out of ammo, however occasional that may be.
With standard TNT cannons, if the 1-round magazine is destroyed, it is usually easily replaceable. This is not the case with the reloading kind, as the entire magazine will explode, destroying the weapon and all the redstone wiring with it—often killing you in the process. This type of cannon has also become redundant with the recent updates allowing automatic cannons utilizing dispensers to reload the tnt, which is easier and more compact to make.
Step 1. Make the framework. Begin with a standard design, but make a few modifications so that it looks like this. Then, you should get out a bucket of water and pour it down the slot like you would with any other design. Make sure to place a block hovering over the source block so you won't accidentally place something in it. Step 2. Make the magazine. This is where the TNT is going to be pushed and loaded into the firing chamber.
It can store up to 12 rounds, but this one will be made with 7. Now we need to add pistons that will push the TNT towards the chamber, so place this following. Step 3. Work on the chamber. It's important to separate the chamber and magazine wiring from the TNT. Step 6. I purposefully planted a few problems.
First, some of the wiring is in the way of the barrel which will severely damage the range. We'll get to that later. More importantly, we need to move one of the repeaters ahead because it isn't providing enough power from where it is.
Step 7. Load the magazine. Pay close attention to this part as you will have to do it every time you reload the magazine. Place the TNT into the magazine, from against the side-pushing pistons Now we need to put sand inside the magazine. You'll have to do this every time, as well. Put 8 stacks on top of the TNT pushed against the left-facing pistons.
Step 8. Finish up. Yes, yes, I promised to fix the wiring in the way of the chamber. Here's the problem. This is how you fix it. It's relatively simple. Make sure there're no more blocks in the way and you should get this when you fire. In the image above, I have just activated my canon.
The darkened row of TNT has just been activated and as you can see, current is moving up repeaters on the far side to the final block of TNT. Our cannon is calibrated carefully to activate the final TNT just after the row of charges have been blown—this is so that the final TNT block will be activated just on time.
If it were activated too soon or too late, it will explode, taking your cannon with it. The cannon works using the principle that TNT charges, as explained earlier. The row of four TNT blocks is the charge. These will explode, but will not destroy your cannon as long as there is water beneath it. As they explode, these TNT blocks will lend their power to the final block of TNT sending it through the air on a four second timer.
This TNT cannon was about as simple as they come, but it doesn't have to end there. As long as you follow the principles of charging your final TNT block and are sure to time the final block to go off just as the charge is activated, the possibilities are endless. Just think of the multitudinous combinations one can create using redstone, pressure plates, pistons, and even lava! If you have any questions or comments please feel free to leave them below. If you would like to show of your cannons or redstone creations please do so in the corkboard section of our World!
Follow us on Twitter MinecraftHowTo! Want to master Microsoft Excel and take your work-from-home job prospects to the next level? Jump-start your career with our Premium A-to-Z Microsoft Excel Training Bundle from the new Gadget Hacks Shop and get lifetime access to more than 40 hours of Basic to Advanced instruction on functions, formula, tools, and more. Hey thanks for showing my how to do this, It was starting to annoy me lol.
Is there anyway to reload or make it fire faster? Yea, hes pretty cool. I know why it doesnt work. It doesnt work cus Minecraft is updated.
I know a cool channel that can teach you how to build a tnt cannon 1. You don't need any thing on the side with the redstone torches and reporters. Just use one redstone torch by the tnt at the end not in the water after you push the button. I created a tutorial on how to create an 'Auto-Cannon'. Shoots, reloads and fires again and again with a flick of a switch.
Updated for 1. Something really weird is happening. I followed the instructions and when I went to fire, somehow the four TNT inside exploded but absolutely nothing else happened. No blocks were destroyed at all except the TNT on the inside. Nothing launched at all either. Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great.
By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article Steps. Tips and Warnings. Related Articles. Article Summary. Author Info Last Updated: September 14, Open the Creative menu. To do so: Computer - Press the E key. Place the cannon's building materials in your inventory.
Move the following items from the creative inventory to your equip bar: 16 blocks - These can be anything from wool to diamond, but iron or obsidian is preferred. The best material to use is quartz. Place a seven-block-long row of blocks. Make sure that at least one end of this row is facing the direction in which you want to shoot.
Place a block on the left side of the last block. You should now have a seven-block-long row with a reverse "L" shape. Place another seven-block-long row of blocks. This row should run parallel to the first row, starting on the left side of the last block you placed.
Doing so will create a "U" shape that is seven blocks long and three blocks wide. Place your last block on top of the front-left block. This block is the top-left block in the "U" shape. Place the slab at the mouth of the "U". The slab should fit directly in between the front-left and front-right blocks. Pour water into the back of the cannon. At the bottom of the "U" shape, place the water to form a channel from the back of the cannon all the way up to the slab.
This is what will move your TNT forward when you place it later. Place a switch on the back-left and back-right blocks. These switches will function as your cannon's triggers.
Leave the middle block blank. You won't put anything here, especially not redstone. Place a line of redstone from the left switch to the end of the left fork. The line of redstone should go all the way up to the last block, including the one you placed on top of the final block on the left side.
Place a line of redstone from the right switch up to the second-to-last block. The line of redstone must go all the way up to the block that comes before the block that's touching the slab. The redstone line should essentially extend the length of the water channel. Place up to four TNT blocks in a line behind the slab. These TNT blocks can go all the way back to the second-to-last block of water, but the source water block must remain.
Fire your cannon. When you're ready, flick the right switch, then immediately hit the left one. This TNT's height will vary depending on how quickly you hit the left switch.
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